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Abstract

Products made of natural silk are indispensable for their hygienic properties and will always be in great demand. To obtain an even and intense coloration on a textile material, it is necessary to ensure its effective preparation with the most complete removal of hydrophobic contaminants (both natural and silicone oils applied during the weaving process, lubricants, etc.), which hinder the dyeing of the substrate and reduce the color characteristics of the obtained colors. Therefore, the issue of preparing natural silk for dyeing is relevant. In view of the sensitivity of the main fiber-forming component of natural silk - fibroin to the effects of chemical reagents, finishing operations (in particular, degluing) should be carried out under gentle conditions, which, nevertheless, provide maximum cleaning from related substances without violating the integrity of the fiber. Known methods of decoction (soap-soda and with the use of surfactants) are carried out under conditions that destroy silk fiber. Therefore, the most promising method of degluing is the use of biological catalysts - enzymes, which are distinguished by a selective, directional action. Enzyme technologies are one of the alternatives to traditional processes for the preparation and finishing of silk textile materials, the use of which helps to solve such important problems as creating a cleaner, softer, more environmentally friendly chemical production. Therefore, the aim of this study was to create a new degluing technology based on enzymes, which allows minimizing fiber damage while increasing the efficiency of finishing operations. In this work, a neutral-acting enzyme was chosen by the selection method based on a combination of criteria, removing the required amount of sericin silk glue, while maintaining the structure of fibroin, and a mode of degluing with the selected enzyme Protosubtilin G3x was proposed. In the course of the work, the influence of the enzymatic method of decoction on the dyeability of silk was studied using the example of active dyes in comparison with traditional degluing methods.

First Page

10

Last Page

14

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